Monday, May 31, 2010

Jack's meat stuffed with meat

So, I have this friend Jack and he really defies description but we can call him quirky for the purposes of this note. Of course he's also funny, smart and loyal, but to illustrate the quirkiness, I shall tell you about his Memorial Day celebration. Instead of the traditional barbecue, he is cohosting a Thanksgiving-style dinner. For which he created a turkey partially deboned and stuffed with a chicken, a pork tenderloin, sausage and bacon, all exquisitely and fragrantly herbed. Of course my professors would be aghast at this Frankenstein beast, but I am happy to be along for the ride in the eccentric experiment. Tomorrow the monster starts roasting at 8am.

On a side note, while he and other friends were here preparing dishes for tomorrow, we invented a delicious cocktail with watermelon juice, gin and lime on the rocks, some with seltzer. Jack pointed out it tasted like candy. Of course a quick googling shows me we didn't invent it per se, but without knowing it was a real drink, we came up with a good one.


Thursday, May 20, 2010

Fall Semester

I've registered for my fall classes and am delighted to announce them:

CUL 1315 Stocks, Sauces and Soups (Sundays in September)
Students are introduced to simmering, emulsifications and knife skills. Lectures, demonstrations and production focus on stocks, sauces, soups and related ingredients. The proper use of knives, tools, smallwares and equipment are emphasized.

CUL 1325 Essentials of Dining Room (Sundays in October)
Students are introduced to front-of-the-house (FOH) operations and professional dining service techniques. Etiquette, quality service, positive guest relations, effective communication skills and guest check handling are emphasized. Students actively perform hot and cold food and beverage service using various service techniques. Students will be prepared and take the Federation of Dining Room Professionals Associate Certification exam as an outcome assessment.

CUL 1335 Traditional European Cuisine (Sundays in November)
Students are introduced to the cooking techniques of braising and stewing. Lecture, demonstration and production revolve around traditional European cuisine, ingredients and plate presentations.

FSM 2045 Introduction to Menu Planning and Cost Controls (Saturdays Sept-Nov)
This course allows the student to learn and to apply the skills of professional menu development while learning the importance and use of the proper tools and documents needed to control food and beverage costs and to analyze sales. This course introduces various food service concepts, explores labor and overhead expenses and introduces the income statement as a method of evaluating business success.

Basil-Parmesan Risotto, Salmon, Brussels Sprouts



Photo: Farrah Sinkey

My dear friend Bethany P. came over for cooking together. She is an outstanding sous chef and friend. The risotto was a modified Cook's Illustrated recipe, of course, the rest invented. I shall never again cook salmon in that method. But isn't Farrah's photo gorgeous?

Tuesday, May 11, 2010

Shrimp and Artichoke Topper for Polenta or Pasta



Ingredients
  • 1 lb raw shrimp, cleaned and peeled
  • 1 tbsp olive oil
  • 3 cloves garlic, minced or pressed
  • 2 scallions, chopped
  • 1 cup artichoke hearts
  • 1 tsp dried basil
  • 1 can (28 oz) diced tomatoes, drained and 1/2 cup juice reserved
  • 8 oz fresh mozzarella, cut in 1/2" cubes
  • salt and pepper to taste

Instructions

Heat olive oil in 12" inch skillet and saute garlic till just toasted, about 2 minutes. Toss in scallions, artichokes, basil, tomatoes, and half cup of reserved tomato juice from can. Heat to simmer and add shrimp and cook through, for about 3 minutes. Toss with mozzarella chunks and serve over warm Creamy Parmesan Polenta. Serves four.

I didn't have fresh basil but would love to try it that way.

Creamy Parmesan Polenta*




Serves 4 as a main course with a topping or 6 to 8 as a side dish. Published March 1, 2010. From Cook's Illustrated.


Coarse-ground degerminated cornmeal such as yellow grits (with grains the size of couscous) works best in this recipe. Avoid instant and quick-cooking products, as well as whole-grain, stone-ground, and regular cornmeal. Do not omit the baking soda—it reduces the cooking time and makes for a creamier polenta. The polenta should do little more than release wisps of steam. If it bubbles or sputters even slightly after the first 10 minutes, the heat is too high and you may need a flame tamer, available at most kitchen supply stores. Alternatively, fashion your own from a ring of foil. For a main course, serve the polenta with a topping (see related recipes) or with a wedge of rich cheese or a meat sauce. Served plain, the polenta makes a great accompaniment to stews and braises.

Ingredients
  • 7 1/2 cups water
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons table salt
  • Pinch baking soda
  • 1 1/2 cups coarse-ground cornmeal
  • 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
  • 4 ounces good-quality Parmesan cheese, grated (about 2 cups), plus extra for serving
  • Ground black pepper
Instructions
1. Bring water to boil in heavy-bottomed 4-quart saucepan over medium-high heat. Stir in salt and baking soda. Slowly pour cornmeal into water in steady stream, while stirring back and forth with wooden spoon or rubber spatula. Bring mixture to boil, stirring constantly, about 1 minute. Reduce heat to lowest possible setting and cover.
2. After 5 minutes, whisk polenta to smooth out any lumps that may have formed, about 15 seconds. (Make sure to scrape down sides and bottom of pan.) Cover and continue to cook, without stirring, until grains of polenta are tender but slightly al dente, about 25 minutes longer. (Polenta should be loose and barely hold its shape but will continue to thicken as it cools.)
3. Remove from heat, stir in butter and Parmesan, and season to taste with black pepper. Let stand, covered, 5 minutes. Serve, passing Parmesan separately.

*This is one I tested before the magazine went to publication. 

Clementine-Grapefruit Sangria

1/4 cup sugar
2 clementines, sliced thinly
1 grapefruit, half sliced and half squeezed
1/4 cup brandy
1 bottle (750ml) red wine

Muddle (mash gently) sugar, fruit and juice in pitcher with a wooden spoon to release fruit juices. Add brandy and wine, stirring to dissolve sugar. Refrigerate at least two hours, but 24 hours or longer is ideal. Serve with ice.

photo: Matthijs van Dijk via stock.xchng

Sunday, May 9, 2010

Class May 9, 2010


falafel, hummus, fresh pita chips

mussels steamed in white wine and garlic

poached and seared venison loin, Latin-inspired rice, fresh vegetables

Tuesday, May 4, 2010

Hummus

Ingredients
  • 1 (15 ounce) can chickpeas, drained and rinsed
  • 1 medium clove garlic, minced or pressed through a garlic press
  • ¾ teaspoon table salt
  • pinch cayenne pepper
  • 3 tablespoons lime juice
  • 1 tbsp cilantro, roughly chopped
  • ¼ cup sesame tahini (Joyva or Krinos brand recommended)
  • ¼ cup virgin olive oil
  • ¼ cup water
  • 1 scallion/green onion, chopped
Instructions
Process all of the ingredients except scallion in a food processor or blender until smooth, about 40 seconds. Transfer the hummus to a bowl and stir in chopped scallion. Cover with lid or plastic wrap, and chill until the flavors meld, at least 30 minutes; serve cold.

Sunday, May 2, 2010

Class May 2, 2010


preparing the bouquet garni

the practice round of our practical exam: poached and seared pork tenderloin, mango and black bean quinoa, tangy Latin beans, roasted tomato-chipotle salsa

S. from Team Andale, preparing the court bullion

final plating for the practical exam

Saturday, May 1, 2010

Beef Empanadas*

Serves 4 to 6 as an entrée. Published May 1, 2010. From Cook's Illustrated.

The alcohol in the dough is essential to the texture of the crust and imparts no flavor—do not substitute for it or omit. Masa harina can be found in the international aisle with other Latin foods or in the baking aisle with the flour. If you cannot find masa harina, replace it with additional all-purpose flour (for a total of 4 cups). After step 5, the empanadas can be covered tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerated for up to 2 days. For an alternate method for crimping the dough, see Decoratively Sealing Empanadas, Calzones, and Pies on the right.

Ingredients
Filling
  • 1 large slice hearty white sandwich bread , torn into quarters
  • 2 tablespoons plus 1/2 cup low-sodium chicken broth 
  • 1 pound 85% lean ground chuck 
  • Table salt and ground black pepper 
  • 1 tablespoon olive oil 
  • 2 medium onions , chopped fine (about 2 cups) 
  • 4 medium garlic cloves , minced or pressed through garlic press (about 4 teaspoons) 
  • 1 teaspoon ground cumin 
  • 1/4 teaspoon cayenne 
  • 1/8 teaspoon ground cloves 
  • 1/2 cup packed cilantro leaves , coarsely chopped 
  • 2 hard-cooked eggs , coarsely chopped 
  • 1/3 cup raisins , coarsely chopped 
  • 1/4 cup pitted green olives , coarsely chopped 
  • 4 teaspoons cider vinegar
Dough
  • 3 cups (15 ounces) unbleached all-purpose flour , plus extra for work surface
  • 1 cup (5 ounces) masa harina (see note) 
  • 1 tablespoon sugar 
  • 2 teaspoons table salt 
  • 12 tablespoons (1 1/2 sticks) unsalted butter , cut into 1/2-inch cubes and chilled 
  • 1/2 cup cold vodka or tequila (see note) 
  • 1/2 cup cold water 
  • 5 tablespoons olive oil (for baking empanadas)
Instructions
  1. FOR THE FILLING: Process bread and 2 tablespoons chicken broth in food processor until paste forms, about 5 seconds, scraping down sides of bowl as necessary. Add beef, ¾ teaspoon salt, and ½ teaspoon pepper and pulse until mixture is well combined, six to eight 1-second pulses.
  2. Heat oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add onions and cook, stirring frequently, until beginning to brown, about 5 minutes. Stir in garlic, cumin, cayenne, and cloves; cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add beef mixture and cook, breaking meat into 1-inch pieces with wooden spoon, until browned, about 7 minutes. Add remaining ½ cup chicken broth and simmer until mixture is moist but not wet, 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer mixture to bowl and cool 10 minutes. Stir in cilantro, eggs, raisins, olives, and vinegar. Season with salt and pepper to taste and refrigerate until cool, about 1 hour. (Filling can be refrigerated for up to 2 days.)
  3. FOR THE DOUGH: Process 1 cup flour, masa harina, sugar, and salt in food processor until combined, about two 1-second pulses. Add butter and process until homogeneous and dough resembles wet sand, about 10 seconds. Add remaining 2 cups flour and pulse until mixture is evenly distributed around bowl, 4 to 6 quick pulses. Empty mixture into large bowl.
  4. Sprinkle vodka or tequila and water over mixture. Using hands, mix dough until it forms tacky mass that sticks together. Divide dough in half, then divide each half into 6 equal pieces. Transfer dough pieces to plate, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate until firm, about 45 minutes or up to 2 days.
  5. TO ASSEMBLE: Adjust oven racks to upper- and lower-middle positions, place 1 baking sheet on each rack, and heat oven to 425 degrees. While baking sheets are preheating, remove dough from refrigerator. Roll each dough piece out on lightly floured work surface into 6-inch circle about ⅛ inch thick, covering each dough round with plastic wrap while rolling remaining dough. Place about 1/3 cup filling in center of each dough round. Brush edges of dough with water and fold dough over filling. Trim any ragged edges. Press edges to seal. Crimp edges of empanadas using fork.
  6. TO BAKE: Drizzle 2 tablespoons oil over surface of each hot baking sheet, then return to oven for 2 minutes. Brush empanadas with remaining tablespoon oil. Carefully place 6 empanadas on each baking sheet and cook until well browned and crisp, 25 to 30 minutes, rotating baking sheets front to back and top to bottom halfway through baking. Cool empanadas on wire rack 10 minutes and serve.
Assembling Empanadas


1. DIVIDE DOUGH
Divide dough in half, then divide each half into six equal pieces.


2. ROLL OUT
Roll each piece into 6-inch round about 1/8 inch thick


3. FILL
Place 1/3 cup filling on each round. Brush edges with water.


4. CRIMP
Fold dough over filling, then crimp edges using fork.

Technique
Crisp Crust With No Frying



OIL PAN
Drizzling oil onto the preheated baking sheets stimulates a shallow fry crisping up the bottom of the pies.



OIL PASTRIES
Brushing the empanadas with oil rather than egg wash before baking helps transfer heat more quickly and evenly, improving browning.

Technique
Decoratively Sealing Empanadas

The pastry cases for our Beef Empanadas are sealed with a simple fork crimp. This technique is easy and quick, and it does the job, but if you'd like to expand your pastry repertoire, you could try the following rope-style crimp, which can also be used form a decorative edge for calzones and pies.


1. Moisten the edges of the dough with water, then lightly press them together to seal. Trim any ragged edges.


2. Starting at one end, pinch and slightly twist the dough diagonally across the seam between your thumb and index finger.


3. Continue pinching and twisting the dough around the seam.

Variations

Serve With *This is one I tested before the magazine went to publication. 

    Almost Hands-Free Risotto with Parmesan and Herbs*

    Serves 6 as a side dish. Published May 1, 2010. From Cook's Illustrated.

    This recipe does not employ the traditional risotto method; the rice is mainly stirred for 3 minutes toward the end of cooking instead of constantly throughout. This more hands-off method does require precise timing, so we strongly recommend using a timer. The consistency of risotto is largely a matter of personal taste; if you prefer a looser texture, add extra broth in step 4.

    Ingredients
    • 5 cups low-sodium chicken broth
    • 1 1/2 cups water
    • 4 tablespoons unsalted butter
    • 1 large onion , chopped fine (about 1 1/2 cups)
    • Table salt
    • 1 medium garlic clove , minced or pressed through a garlic press (about 1 teaspoon)
    • 2 cups Arborio rice
    • 1 cup dry white wine
    • 2 ounces grated Parmesan cheese (about 1 cup)
    • 1 teaspoon juice from 1 lemon
    • 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley leaves
    • 2 tablespoons chopped fresh chives
    • Ground black pepper


    Instructions
    1. Bring broth and water to boil in large saucepan over high heat. Reduce heat to medium-low to maintain gentle simmer.
    2. Heat 2 tablespoons butter in large Dutch oven over medium heat. When butter has melted, add onion and ¾ teaspoon salt; cook, stirring frequently, until onion is softened but not browned, 4 to 7 minutes. Add garlic and stir until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add rice and cook, stirring frequently, until grains are translucent around edges, about 3 minutes.
    3. Add wine and cook, stirring constantly, until fully absorbed, 2 to 3 minutes. Stir 5 cups hot broth mixture into rice; reduce heat to medium-low, cover, and simmer until almost all liquid has been absorbed and rice is just al dente, 16 to 19 minutes, stirring twice during cooking.
    4. Add ¾ cup hot broth mixture and stir gently and constantly until risotto becomes creamy, about 3 minutes. Stir in Parmesan. Remove pot from heat, cover, and let stand 5 minutes. Stir in remaining 2 tablespoons butter, lemon juice, parsley, and chives; season with salt and pepper to taste. If desired, add up to ½ cup remaining broth mixture to loosen texture of risotto. Serve immediately.

    Step-by-Step: Secrets to Almost Hands-Free Risotto

    In the traditional approach to risotto, near-constant stirring for 25 minutes accomplishes two things: It maximizes the release of starch from the rice, for a creamier sauce, and it ensures that the whole pot cooks evenly. Here’s how we achieved the same goals, with just a few minutes of stirring.



    1. ADD LOTS OF LIQUID
    Once it starts bubbling, a full 5 cups of liquid added at the start of cooking agitates the rice grains much like stirring, accelerating the release of creamy starch.



    2. PUT A LID ON IT
    A lid, coupled with the heavy-bottomed Dutch oven and low heat, helps to distribute the heat as evenly as stirring, so every grain is as tender as the next.



    3. STIR, THEN REST
    A brief stir followed by a five-minute rest provides additional insurance that the rice will be perfectly al dente, from the top of the pot to the bottom.

    *This is one I tested before the magazine went to publication.